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Let's do some test, let's see if you can feel the difference between Vertical Green- and Horizontal Green-.
which group of stones on these pics you feel are bad? left or right? one group has Vertical Green- which is bad, the other miss that so only Horizontal Green-.
Let's just answer for example, in pic1 stones are better on left/right.
pic 1
pic 2
pic 3
When enough users will have posted, I'll give the solution :-)
Now the explanation,
by the work of some Frenchs of the 1940, comes out a pendulum that is meant to find colors in their magnetic and electric phase. It's called the Virtual Cone or Fiction Cone pendulum, let's call it VC pendulum.
There is a lot to tell here, so I will explain a bit the summary of this huge topic.
Basically, we have a spectrum of colors, and each color has an angle, and each color has a phase, magnetic or horizontal wave, electric or vertical waves.
Magnetic/horizontal are good.
Electric/vertical are bad.
This VC pendulum do detects colors creating the angle of the color you want to detect, moving the ring to the corrisponding angle.
The ring has two sides, in one there is a little ring, that side is to detect electric vertical colors.
Vertical electric colors are dangerous. So you want to avoid making orgone with stones,etc that have electric colors.
You can test if your Orgonite does put out good orgone if you can detect with VC pendulum these 3 colors in horizontal phase: Green-, Indigo (or Orange if you have Indigo color in the orgonite), Ultraviolet .
Also test that NO electric colors in vertical eletric phase are present.
Now some details, Green- is not a green, is a color that in the color compass, is the opposite of green, so they called negative green. It is mostly a grey/white color.
What is interesting in this color: it's a carrier wave color, it's a color that connect spiritual planes with earth, so you can dowse that color on some powerfull spot or in holy temples.
Indigo or Orange is the higher armonic of gold.
Don't have other details on Ultraviolet.
So your orgone devices are good if you have these 3 colors.
But you want also to be sure that you don't have ANY vertical electric colors in your orgone devices.
I dowsed a lot of things I have, some orgonite I've made have vertical electrical colors.
Unfortunately, radio waves and a lot of our common electronics does have Vertical G-, they need G- to carry their waves, but they have the Vertical component of it, so that's why they're bad for our health. Also some neodymium magnets have Vertical Green-
more info here http://www.orgoneaustralia.com.au/Theory_P1.html
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I think this thread should be in the Subtle Energy Weapons and Tools forum.
The article says "The main point of EMF protection is to transmute the Vertical component of the Negative Green (detrimental to us) into Horizontal (beneficial to us). "
I don't fully understand this stuff yet, but i'd guess there is considerable truth to that. I suspect there is much more to EMF protection too, though. Mainly because i get that the Energy-Rectification Program does not do that transmutation at all.
The program i get is best for doing this transmutation is the Strontium-Barium pgm. I get that PRG is 90% as effective (for the same volume of resin), and the Brass Pgm is maybe 60% as good as S-B.
NDW says the Water Charging pgm does this for water.
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Ok, moved the thread in the end we're speaking of tools anyway so it's correct to put it here.
Yes, I've dowsed that water coming at home have Vertical G-, in short VG-. After placing it over a Water PGM, after some hours I dowsed again for VG-, no response. So the pgm does remove the VG- from water.
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Left in both are good, I think. I feel a difference between the two subjects.. But hard to tell what the check the differences are. I personally feel you could use vertical energies in a good way. Like how a grid blaster works, you hijack the vertical energies and feed healing intentions into them.. But in my experiences it is near impossible, if not all together.. It's just wishful thinking I suppose. Xmtrs and such are a pain in the ass. I'm sure they generate plenty of that nastiness. Once had a war with a cell tower trying to manipulate it and the energy field around the things at the top were getting all wobbly and unstable.. Probably the energy you speak of, evil life force aura around cell towers.. I still believe more can be done about neutralizing them, orgone wise.. Not sure what the monkey wrenches actually do. So I can't say if more is needed, or they do a top notch job. Never really checked. I suppose those monkey wrenches know all about your topic here.
Well that's my simple answer!
Be calm, be Upright.
Be anchored in your own Light.
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After placing it over a Water PGM, after some hours I dowsed again for VG-, no response. So the pgm does remove the VG- from water.
How about if u just leave something with the Water Pgm on your water pipe, come back maybe hours or days later, and check the water coming out of tap?
The water pgm charges all water it connects with.
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ndw wrote:After placing it over a Water PGM, after some hours I dowsed again for VG-, no response. So the pgm does remove the VG- from water.
How about if u just leave something with the Water Pgm on your water pipe, come back maybe hours or days later, and check the water coming out of tap?
The water pgm charges all water it connects with.
already have one, will place more...
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added pic 3
no other one to write about the test?
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NATAH'N
Last edited by DanaSG (2019-10-03 13:01:15)
~44~
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My little Lenka and I've looked at picts and this is what we've got : (left-rigth)
1) - +
2) + -
3) + -
Rather than just looking, try feeling them by mousing over.
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OK, some more pgms that seem to convert vertical neg green to horizontal.
This 1st one, the way we found out about it is that ndw was having ChemmerBuster pgm the S-B pgm into some resin he was re-casting TBs into. However, on some, he got this pgm instead.
It seems CBer has some mysterious friend that wrote this pgm.
Here is a pic of some i poured:
It goes into plain resin, and can also probably tolerate various powders, but at this time i get that some iron oxide is best, which is what i used here.
Also the pgm goes into many types of stones (which may be bionized), e.g. any type of quartz, peridot, topaz, garnet, agate, and probably a few others. Fluorite is one, but because it is soft it may not be good to boil it.
It also goes into qtz sand. However, due to the difficulty of programming such fine particles, don't put the sand into resin that you want a different pgm in. That is, both the resin and the sand should get the same pgm. I think if the sand is pre-pgmed and then put into resin that gets a different pgm, the pgm in the sand will interfere with pgming the resin. Conversely, if the sand is not pre-pgmed, The Committee will not be able to find all the little particles in the resin to pgm them after the resin is cured.
In the pic above, the slab contains a bunch of bionized sand with this pgm. The disk does not.
Next post will be about another pgm.
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OK, the 2nd one is actually an old pgm that used to be a companion to the S-B pgm. When S-B first came out, it seemed to have a harsh, cutting quality that left "jagged edges" in the energy field of places i busted. (Later this effect was no longer noted, as the S-B had deleted a level of bad energy from the universe.)
So this was mitigated by a layer of the grey program mentioned in the original OTB about S-B:
http://loohan.com/otb33.htm
If you are a history buff, scroll down that page a little more than halfway. However, we have simplified the powder mix for it, so all you need to know is that it requires KYANITE powder and TITANIUM powder.
Problem is, where to get kyanite powder. I only find 1 vendor
http://www.skylighter.com/kyanite.htm
but his is 48 mesh, and i'm not sure that's fine enough to stay in suspension. I have some much finer stuff myself.
Might be worth trying. If it sinks, just make very thin layers.
There is a kyanite dot com, and 11-12 years ago i got them to send me a bunch of fine powder. They were real nice and sent one shipment for free and later another real cheap.
Only later did i realize they were satanists. They have now been replaced by clones.
I suppose one could pulverize kyanite stones, but that would be ridiculously expensive.
Alas, so far there seems to be no way around the need for kyanite powder for this particular pgm.
OK, yet another pgm that seems to transmute neg green, but is NOT a free public pgm, is the Variability Pgm:
http://loohan.com/variabilityproducts.htm
Not free to the general public, but a few individuals might be able to get it. It requires about 1 tsp iron oxide powder per pint of resin. If you don't get that pgm, The C will give you the pgm mentioned in my previous post instead.
There is much evidence that heretofore The Committee was not aware of the toxicity of vertical negative green. Yet, both the S-B pgm and its original companion pgm seem to transmute it.
Another oddity is (remember, cats love vertical neg green and thrive on it) once i made a big disk for my cat friend Duder. Unfortunately i did not photograph it, and i don't remember all the details of what i put into it. But i sense that disk is still in use for a couple cats, and that it emits strong vertical -G...
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The other day i was looking at the desktop on my PC, where i have a thumbnail icon of the color sphere (the last pic in the first post which started this thread)
and i noticed it felt DORy. More specifically the WHITE wedge.
After a minute or so, the bad energy faded out.
I speculate that this was possibly due to "electrical white" energy due to my smart meter.
(There is a thread on this forum mentioning smart meters,
http://loohan.esy.es/viewtopic.php?id=68&p=1
where Sittingtaoist said that some smart meters do not radiate MWs themselves, but hijack the house wiring as an antenna to send the signals. I suspect i have such a one.)
My electric co-op is not very sinister. Some repty employees but the BOD are all Earthlings, so i doubt they would be abusing the smart meter applications.
Now the search is on for means to neutralize electric white. I think the brass pgm is somewhat effective; maybe i just need more of it on my wiring.
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What i wrote: "Other types transmit via the grid - making all the house-wiring act as an antenna."
I did not mean that this type of meter is meant to use the grid as an antenna. it transmit via the grid instead of by MW. But you cannot avoid that the grid will radiate the frequencies - like it radiates any other kind of dirty electricity.
However, this kind of meter is much less common than those communicating by means of MW.
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What i wrote: "Other types transmit via the grid - making all the house-wiring act as an antenna."
I did not mean that this type of meter is meant to use the grid as an antenna. it transmit via the grid instead of by MW. But you cannot avoid that the grid will radiate the frequencies - like it radiates any other kind of dirty electricity.
However, this kind of meter is much less common than those communicating by means of MW.
I gotcha i think. The signal rides on the wires back to the station. That sounds relatively harmless if it's just an occasional thing. Which i suspect it would be in my area so far, unlike some others.
Maybe it was something else i felt.
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I think i am getting more sensitized to VG-. NDW wrote me that the broken end of tourmaline emits VG-. I have a piece of broken-on-one-end schorl here, and i do feel that.
I checked over some orgone devices i have around the house. I suspect that small emissions of VG- are not important; at least i don't notice them. But some pieces felt like they needed tweaking.
Here is how i think i neutralized some pyramids and cones: i pick up the pyramid and feel whether one (possibly more) mid-point on the base periphery needs something....
First i measure the exact center of that side with a ruler, then i mark that side (not the base) of the pyramid with a small mark with a Sharpie marker. Just a line from the base upward 1/4" or so.
Then i turn the 'mid upside-down
and draw an ankh in the same spot. Actually, it may not even require that. Sometimes a mere line will do, or a T, or a line with a circle on the end. But there is no harm in doing a whole ankh. Also there is no harm in doing all the sides.
With cones, i ask if it needs something like that also. On most of my cones i do not feel it necessary, but a few required 1 line.
With a cone there is no mid-point to measure, so you have to intuit where the marks go. Again i make one short mark on the outside bottom of the cone, then turn it upside-down and make a line or whatever in the same spot.
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