30,000 hz square wave (and other freqs) zapping

UrosS · 2018-12-22 07:44:52

In 2nd case it's so:
Mini Jack splitter comes as output from comp/phone and divides the stereo on 2 monos RCA cable which already has only 2 parallel separate wires, no third one. Each goes to another electrode. I didn't try this cable with coil yet but thought the same as you - this can
possibly be 2 monos for 2 coils.

I used for one Mobius coil an old headphones wire which has the 3rd uninsulated wire already splitted on ends. Can go the 3rd one than on both coil ends or should be only on one side?

So this the difference between cables.

Don't know how theoretically works, it's only my lay concept explaining/understanding it.

Loohan · 2018-12-22 08:42:53

UrosS wrote:

In 2nd case it's so:
Mini Jack splitter comes as output from comp/phone and divides the stereo on 2 monos RCA cable which already has only 2 parallel separate wires, no third one. Each goes to another electrode.

What do you mean by another electrode? You mean the leads are shorted together and attached to a pipe?

I didn't try this cable with coil yet but thought the same as you - this can
possibly be 2 monos for 2 coils.
I used for one Mobius coil an old headphones wire which has the 3rd uninsulated wire already splitted on ends.

Yes, some cables instead of 3 leads in one jacket have 2 parallel leads each with 2 wires.
For running a coil one would have to connect the 2 ground wires (which should be the same color) together and attach these to one end of the coil. And connect the 2 signal wires and attach these to the other end of the coil.

Can go the 3rd one than on both coil ends or should be only on one side?

Don't understand question. Diagrams or clear photos are needed for this discussion but i don't have time this morning.

So this the difference between cables.
Don't know how theoretically works, it's only my lay concept explaining/understanding it.

UrosS · 2018-12-22 09:10:22

Loohan wrote:

What do you mean by another electrode? You mean the leads are shorted together and attached to a pipe?

No. Each lead to separate pipes.

Loohan wrote:

Yes, some cables instead of 3 leads in one jacket have 2 parallel leads each with 2 wires.
For running a coil one would have to connect the 2 ground wires (which should be the same color) together and attach these to one end of the coil. And connect the 2 signal wires and attach these to the other end of the coil.

These 2 lead RCAs only have 1 wire in each of parallel lead. It works good for 2 separate pipes but I'm really not sure for coil.

Loohan wrote:

Don't understand question. Diagrams or clear photos are needed for this discussion but i don't have time this morning.

Ok. The electro-language is to difficult for me to discuss. I only experiment by common sense, and may be wrong.

If anyone knows how the headphones leads separate in 2 ends, and how can best run the coil, please welcome to explain better.

I gave that coil to someone, so I don't have pics.

Mordok · 2018-12-22 20:15:30

A typical headset cable has a braid just inside the outer insulation. Sometimes there is a foil layer as well. These are for shielding and are grounded. Inside this is usually three wires, four if it is a headset with a microphone. Lets ignore the microphone and concentrate on the stereo audio coming out. You have two wires that are signal wires, left and right stereo. Then you have a third wire which is a ground wire. Each side is it's own circuit, left and right, regardless whether the signal is mono or stereo. The two sides are separate and only share one ground wire to save money.

Each headphone earpiece is a sound device that reproduces the sound that it's wire carried to it. You can thus replace the left side earpiece with a coil and it will have the left side audio going through it and this will not affect the right side earpiece which will only play what the right side earpiece is told to play. In this case you can hear the audio in the right earpiece and maybe feel the vibration of the coil or orgone device that is on the left circuit. Take out the right side earpiece and replace it with another coil or an orgone device and you still have two separate circuits driving two separate items. Left and right stereo are two separate circuits. If the signal is stereo then each device will react to only the signal that is in it's circuit. If the signal is mono, then both devices will get the same signal but will still react to that signal as if it is the only device in the circuit because each device is still on it's own circuit, regardless of the incoming signal also going to the other device on the other circuit.

If you use a mono jack and have only one signal wire and one ground wire then you can only drive one device because now you have only one circuit, not two. Even if you add a separate wire to the mono signal wire to attach to a second device, you are not generating a separate circuit, you are putting the two devices in parallel with each other and electronically this may not work if the two devices react to each other because they are in the same circuit.

If you use a splitter and have left and right coming out of two jacks instead of one, you still only have two separate circuits... left side and right side. Only now, if two people are listening with headphones, you have two right earpieces in parallel with each other and sharing the signal. With earpieces this works out even if the volume goes down for both listeners. Same with the left, only one circuit with two earpieces in parallel. So trying to put two coils on the right channel using the splitter and two more headset cords might not work if the coils are not designed for both of them to be in parallel.

UrosS · 2018-12-23 05:39:43

Thanks Mordok for detail explaining, maybe it's now much more clear how these circuits function.

As I understood, it won't work if the coil (per example Mobius) which has two ends wires to plugg,
if each is connected separately to L and R headphone wires. If one of the wires is enough to run the coil, how should be then connected? One end of coil to ground wire other end to main wire?
This I still need to clear up.

Mordok · 2018-12-23 11:05:27

If you connect left stereo wire to one side of a coil and right stereo wire to the other side of the coil the only time you would get any signal flow would be when there is a difference between the left and right channels. If the signal is the same on both left and right channels then there is no difference and thus no current flow. This is not a good situation because both left and right channels are trying to send out a signal, not have one come back in because of a stronger signal on the other channel. Both channels want to send the signal to a load and back through the ground connection and not through each other.

UrosS, most often if there is a mono signal in a stereo system then the left side carries the signal. Some programs will go ahead and put the same signal on both left and right, so it depends on the program. You want to hook one end of the coil to left channel and the other end to the ground wire. If you have a second device or coil you can hook one side of that to the right channel and the other side to ground. You do not need to use two separate ground wires if the devices are close enough and not likely to interfere with each other.

UrosS · 2018-12-23 12:15:23

Ok, I got it. Thanks a lot for instructions, Mordok.

Loohan · 2018-12-23 19:15:52

Mordok wrote:

A typical headset cable has a braid just inside the outer insulation. Sometimes there is a foil layer as well. These are for shielding and are grounded. Inside this is usually three wires, four if it is a headset with a microphone. Lets ignore the microphone and concentrate on the stereo audio coming out. You have two wires that are signal wires, left and right stereo. Then you have a third wire which is a ground wire.

Headsets have 3 wires plus passive braid? I have not cut open a headset, just these stereo cords i bought years ago. These have 2 insulated leads plus the braid which i presume is the ground for the 2 insulated leads.

Loohan · 2018-12-23 19:20:49

On my computer NCH comes out mono in both speakers. So i advocate twisting L&R insulated leads together (tho i suppose one could use either lead alone).

[Don't do this. Read subsequent posts.]

Mordok · 2018-12-24 09:31:57

Loohan, I would suggest that you only use one wire, even though both have the same signal. If there is any difference in the output signal because of a slight defect in either circuit, you end up with one channel driving into the other channel. You could ruin one or both channels over time. It is best to keep both channels separate and just use one wire.

Loohan · 2018-12-24 15:35:57

Mordok wrote:

Loohan, I would suggest that you only use one wire, even though both have the same signal. If there is any difference in the output signal because of a slight defect in either circuit, you end up with one channel driving into the other channel. You could ruin one or both channels over time. It is best to keep both channels separate and just use one wire.

You mean the sound card of the computer could be ruined?
OK i guess i need to reconfigure then.

Mordok · 2018-12-24 20:10:29

Yes, that is what could happen. Any device putting out a stereo signal could have a problem if both left and right channels become tied together and connected to the same load. Even playing a mono sound out both channels could do it if any components on either channel were to change value and
thus have a differential between the two channels it would start feeding some of the signal back into whichever channel has the lower value instead of completely through the load. It just isn't worth the risk.

Loohan · 2018-12-27 10:44:47

OK, here you can see i cut off the red lead, hopefully not letting the tip short against anything.
Then i tightly twisted on thicker white wires just because the wires in the cable are too thin to attack securely to a plug. Then i slipped thin shrink-wrap to further tighten and also insulate the junctions from each other.
Then i used 2 layers of thicker shrink-wrap over those to secure everything from stress.
I should have made the white extension wires longer but this works on what i'm using it for.

If you look closely at first pic you will see i messed up and left a few "hairs" of the ground wire loose. I did not notice that until i looked at the pics after making the thing. Luckily none of these shorted against anything. But you want to be more conscientious than i was in this regard.

Banana plugs: In the interest of economy i often use bullet connectors instead. The males are a bit too loose but i slip a knife in the seam to expand them a bit.
But also i often use these plugs. The best deal i have found is a dozen pairs of Mediabridge Banana Plugs on Amazon. These are nice and can be unscrewed and re-used indefinitely. Also the metal in them can be programmed which can be advantageous at times.

Shrink-wrap: I use a disposable lighter to shrink them but be aware that plastic lighters melt if left burning too long. I do a few seconds of shrinking, turn it off, blow on the lighter end, then do some more.

Hopefully eventually i will distill the more relevant data from this thread into an OTB.

Loohan · 2019-01-01 17:53:03

So, time for a review. So far i have been using the 30K zapper, NCHtoner, the cheap Chinese PWM generator, and the $30 DDS gen.

The 30K set zapper is fine and i always have a bunch of stuff running on one. It is also very compact for wearing. That freq is very effective against a wide range of demonic critters. You can't go wrong with this, and if you are not energy-sensitive you might just stick with this.

However, for an intuitive with suitable orgone weapons, i find it desirable to be able to intuit freqs for short or longer-term frying of specific nasty critters. Lately that is often the pivotal thing that turns down a strong attack.

The NCH Toner is the only one that does fractions of a Hz, and it is my choice for attacking pathogens like viruses. On my computer it is fine for all purposes but only runs when your computer is running, and ties up your sound card. And i suppose the quality of the sound card makes a difference.

The DDS unit and NCHtoner seem to have the crispest output for powering large amounts of quartz.
But for resin devices which do not have abnormal amounts of quartz, as far as i can judge, comparable results are attained whether from the DDS unit or PWM.
The PWM then is fine IMO for people not doing lots of quartz. Only thing is it's a bit awkward to change the freqs as the buttons are tiny and hard to see. By contrast the DDS unit has a classier interface, easier to access. It also has a filter button -- dunno what that does exactly but it is one way to adjust the vibe. It also has a DC Offset (whatever that is) button with a tuning knob which also really tweaks the vibe. And likewise, a volume knob. And it does several wave-forms. And although it costs 10X what a little PWN does, it's still cheap by comparison with what i paid for 555 zappers in the old days, and it is a Rolls Royce compared to them. I might buy a 2nd one someday.

So in a nutshell, i like them all a lot.
And the model Uros got is probably fine, too.

Loohan · 2019-01-16 09:15:41

Actually i am having a minor problem with the DDS unit. It happened twice in the last few hours as well as at least twice before.
It turns itself off, sometimes reverting to the default 10K {CORRECTION, 100K}, sine output read.
It is running on the adapter that came with it, on 110V AC house current. The problem might be caused by a momentary interruption in power (though none was noticed), as unplugging it momentarily also has the same result (with reversion of settings to default). If so, it may be advisable to run this in an Uninterrupted Power Source (UPS). I do not have one here where i presently am in VA.
But sometimes it does not revert. This morning early was such a time, then a couple hours later it shut off again, this time reverting.

The cheaper Chinese unit holds its settings when turned off.

Loohan Forums

#61 2018-12-22 07:44:52

Re: 30,000 hz square wave (and other freqs) zapping

#62 2018-12-22 08:42:53

Re: 30,000 hz square wave (and other freqs) zapping

#63 2018-12-22 09:10:22

Re: 30,000 hz square wave (and other freqs) zapping

#64 2018-12-22 20:15:30

Re: 30,000 hz square wave (and other freqs) zapping

#65 2018-12-23 05:39:43

Re: 30,000 hz square wave (and other freqs) zapping

#66 2018-12-23 11:05:27

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#67 2018-12-23 12:15:23

Re: 30,000 hz square wave (and other freqs) zapping

#68 2018-12-23 19:15:52

Re: 30,000 hz square wave (and other freqs) zapping

#69 2018-12-23 19:20:49

Re: 30,000 hz square wave (and other freqs) zapping

#70 2018-12-24 09:31:57

Re: 30,000 hz square wave (and other freqs) zapping

#71 2018-12-24 15:35:57

Re: 30,000 hz square wave (and other freqs) zapping

#72 2018-12-24 20:10:29

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#73 2018-12-27 10:44:47

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#74 2019-01-01 17:53:03

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#75 2019-01-16 09:15:41

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