30,000 hz square wave (and other freqs) zapping

UrosS · 2018-12-16 05:39:58

Thank you guys to clear up this question. One thing is surely here obvious - more than month no Sun and very busy schedule on top of it. I never needed to take extra supplements as it's been often like this and my body automatically craved for foods which have it.

Related to the topic, I'm just wandering why freqs doesn't kill bacteria or virus - if it's any at all. They may only feel good and uplifting.
I desperately took antibiotics first time after 15 years, and no results. It is resistant to all what I tried. So if it's anything in my body it may be synthetic.

When coughing became too irritating, choking and burdening to heart muscle only thing it helped was Loohan finding the attacks (lately with help of Angie) which immediately released the intensity till the next one. I'm really grateful for this precious help.

Today first sunny day after long time...I'm taking advantage of it.
Lately was often that even if orgone cleared most of the sky only the Sun area was dumped persistently.

...and of course Sun didn't last for long. As usually covered with chem now.

Last edited by UrosS (2018-12-16 07:31:26)

UrosS · 2018-12-16 05:53:08

sittingtaoist wrote:

The square wave generators discussed in this thread generate pulsing DC.

When I use classic Luke coil run by only AC power (no freq generator) it produce intense frequencies you can feel the buzz directly by touching the pipe. Did anyone find out or measure what frequencies it emits? Presume oscilloscope is needed.

I'm probably here the worst in electronics, but when using it for such purposes it started to be really fun for me.
Yesterday I finished this car device which can separately use 2 coils for frequencies and classic Luke coil.

Mordok · 2018-12-16 09:28:03

UrosS, if your zapper has both +Vin and -Vin and you use plus and minus voltage sources you would get a square wave that goes both positive and negative. If you only use +Vin and ground with just one voltage source that is positive, your output square wave will always be zero to positive, never negative.

UrosS · 2018-12-16 10:11:58

Mordok wrote:

If you only use +Vin and ground with just one voltage source that is positive, your output square wave will always be zero to positive, never negative.

Thanks Mordok, interesting. Yes, on left side it has 2 input options: micro USB or +Vin and - Vin. But no ground input
On right there are PW1 - GND - PW2 -GND, 4 outputs. I presume micro USB gives both, + and -

How should I connect these now?
+Vin left and GND right to input?
This can be whole mess of wires as PWs are used as output signal to coils or electrodes.

Pics come out blurry when posted here, hopefully you can see what is where.

Mordok · 2018-12-16 10:26:06

The Vin's set the stage for the output. Whatever +Vin is, the output will be a percentage of that voltage. Likewise if -Vin is a negative voltage then the bottom of the square wave will be a negative value. So if instead of using a -Vin which would cause the bottom of the square wave to be negative, you put the voltage source's ground wire on -Vin. The positive voltage source goes on +Vin. That makes sure that no voltage ever goes below zero.

UrosS · 2018-12-16 10:51:47

Ok. Now I tried on one CB device where I bypassed the zapper paralelly. One wire I connected to +Vin another to GND on other side. It works. Great, thanks.
So if I use the micro USB gate that gives other results?

Mordok · 2018-12-16 11:39:26

I do not know if the micro USB will power the unit or not. It is there mostly for communicating with the board. You can change the frequency and the duty cycle through this port. My zappers do not have that connector but they do have serial in, serial out and ground connections. I have managed to change both the duty cycle and the frequency using an arduino uno. But you want to be careful. I do believe that this port is looking for something around 3.3v and NOT 5v which is likely to be coming from the arduino. So you need a voltage divider. The arduino output can go through a 680 ohm resister and then a 1k ohm resister to ground. At the junction of the two resisters you will have close to 3.3v which is where you take your input to the zapper. Use "F" for frequency and "D" for duty cycle and follow with 3 digits. A decimal point can also be used. "F100" = 100 hz. "F2.30" = 2.3khz "F020" = 20 hz. Same for duty cycle although most duty cycles will be less than 100 so you need the zero. "D035" = 35% duty cycle.

Mordok · 2018-12-16 11:42:26

Also, if your zappers are like mine then the serial communications needs to be 9600, 8N1. I think with the arduino the 8N1 was already set but the baud rate for the serial communications can be set to a lot of different values so you want to make sure you set it to 9600.

UrosS · 2018-12-16 12:11:53

Micro USB I used for voltage, didn't try anything else. It works fine with 5V or 12V.
Info and other specifics than these I already posted, no communication codes or else:

2CH Independent PWM Generator Duty Cycle Pulse Frequency Module LED Digital Tube

Highlights:

Two independent PWM generators can set the frequency, duty cycle;
The wide frequency range, high accuracy;
Can serial communication.
First, the module description：

Frequency is divided into three ranges:

XXX (no decimal point): the smallest unit is 1Hz, the range 1Hz ~ 999Hz;
XX.X (decimal point in ten): The minimum unit is 0.1Khz; the range of 0.1KHz ~ 99.9KHz
X.X.X. (there are three decimal point): the smallest unit is 1Khz; the range 1KHz ~ 150KHz
Frequency display example:

"100" indicates that the PWM output pulse of 100Hz;

"54.1" indicates that the PWM output pulse of 54.1KHz;

"1.2.4." Indicates that the PWM pulse output 124KHz

Duty Cycle in the range: 0 to 100;

Three frequencies duty cycle is the same, all the parameters non-volatile.

Second, the module parameters:

Working voltage: 5--30V, support micro USB 5.0V power supply;
Frequency range: 1Hz ~ 150KHz;
The frequency accuracy: ± 2%;
Output Current: <30mA;
Output amplitude: Default 5Vp-p (settable);
Operating temperature range: -30 ~ + 70 ℃.

sittingtaoist · 2018-12-16 13:03:26

-Vin and ground is the same electrode. Zero resistance between them. Measured on this circuit.

Last edited by sittingtaoist (2018-12-16 13:14:50)

UrosS · 2018-12-16 13:51:05

sittingtaoist wrote:

-Vin and ground is the same electrode. Zero resistance between them. Measured on this circuit.

Ok, clear. So practically no difference, and probably these devices are similarly made.
Then it should be the same with my who has micro USB port when used with charger/adapter, I guess...

Loohan · 2018-12-19 18:47:25

For beginners:
What if you want to run NCHtoner output through a coil? You have a headphone jack made for a 3 conductor stereo wire but on the other end of the cable you want 2 leads with a mono signal -- maybe with banana plugs or alligator clips on the tips.

I just made an adapter wire and should have taken a pic... Take a stereo lead of the length you desire, cut off anything you don't need that might be on the other end, and strip out the outer coat. I had to strip it in short pieces because otherwise the unsheathed wire would tear from the stress.
There should be 2 insulated wires inside plus one unsheathed one. You want to strip the ends of the 2 insulated ones and twist them tightly together. This makes one of your leads which you can connect to a clip or whatever. The uninsulated lead goes to the other clip.

Of course these instructions are inadequate for the complete electro-dunce. If i ever make one again i'll take pix.

UrosS · 2018-12-20 03:44:02

Loohan wrote:

You have a headphone jack made for a 3 conductor stereo wire but on the other end of the cable you want 2 leads with a mono signal -- maybe with banana plugs or alligator clips on the tips.

I've been experimenting also with this case lately.
What about RCA cinch double splitted cable?
I made two of these:

1. I already have stereo headphone jack on one side splitted to 2 mono cinch. The wire was long enough to make also Luke coil between 2 ends.

2. both side splitted cinch cable; I only cut connectors on one side and taped it to 2 copper pipes each, classic Zapper. For other side I use only RCA to small stereo jack adapter.

Another case: I used old headphones and cut away earplugs. Wire is already splitted.

All these work fine with NCH Toner from comp or with my phone freq apps.

Loohan · 2018-12-20 07:33:17

Sure, i sometimes use RCA plugs/wires as one conductor instead of 2. You can use any kind of plug.

I generally prefer banana plugs/jacks as they are easy to install. Also "bullet connectors" of the 16-14 awg size are interchangeable with banana. The male bullets need to have their seam expanded slightly by slipping in a knife blade, but the females work well as is for banana plug receptacles.

I see what you're doing there in the 2nd pic. By using a splitter you avoid having to splice wires together. You just connect the far ends of the leads to make it mono. Easier to do, if one has the splitter. They also make splitters (might be easier to find) splitting stereo output into 2 separate 2-conductor plugs of the same diameter.
So if one has to split a stereo signal into 2 conductors, a splitter would be easier than splicing wires. Though splitters cost a few bucks.

Loohan · 2018-12-22 06:49:26

Er wait, on 2nd thought, Uros, is all you're doing just shorting the 2 wire ends on each channel together?
My impression is that the main 3-lead stereo cable contains 1 insulated signal wire for each speaker (i dunno if that would be + or -) plus a common bare ground wire.
After it goes through a splitter, you have 2 channel cables that each have + and -, and if you twist the + and - of each channel together you have no electrical continuity. You are just shorting out each channel on itself.
This might still work somewhat as the subtle aspect of the freq can work without electrical continuity. I used to pump NCH output into devices that had no continuity. But it will not send juice through a coil. Nor through your body if using electrodes to zap.

On the other hand, if each 2-wire end powered a separate coil instead of shorting, that would be a different matter.

The way i originally suggested feeds the ground (bare wire of cable) into one lead of the coil, and the combined signal wires of L and R stereo into the other end of the coil. So stereo becomes mono.
Actually, the output of NCH should be exactly the same out of L and R as it already puts out a mono signal through both. So one actually only needs one of the signal wires (plus of course the ground). It would be just as good to only use one output from the splitter to power the coil(s) as the signal should be the same whether using both signal wires or just one. And leave the other channel of the splitter unused.

Someone correct me if i'm wrong.

Loohan Forums

#46 2018-12-16 05:39:58

Re: 30,000 hz square wave (and other freqs) zapping

#47 2018-12-16 05:53:08

Re: 30,000 hz square wave (and other freqs) zapping

#48 2018-12-16 09:28:03

Re: 30,000 hz square wave (and other freqs) zapping

#49 2018-12-16 10:11:58

Re: 30,000 hz square wave (and other freqs) zapping

#50 2018-12-16 10:26:06

Re: 30,000 hz square wave (and other freqs) zapping

#51 2018-12-16 10:51:47

Re: 30,000 hz square wave (and other freqs) zapping

#52 2018-12-16 11:39:26

Re: 30,000 hz square wave (and other freqs) zapping

#53 2018-12-16 11:42:26

Re: 30,000 hz square wave (and other freqs) zapping

#54 2018-12-16 12:11:53

Re: 30,000 hz square wave (and other freqs) zapping

#55 2018-12-16 13:03:26

Re: 30,000 hz square wave (and other freqs) zapping

#56 2018-12-16 13:51:05

Re: 30,000 hz square wave (and other freqs) zapping

#57 2018-12-19 18:47:25

Re: 30,000 hz square wave (and other freqs) zapping

#58 2018-12-20 03:44:02

Re: 30,000 hz square wave (and other freqs) zapping

#59 2018-12-20 07:33:17

Re: 30,000 hz square wave (and other freqs) zapping

#60 2018-12-22 06:49:26

Re: 30,000 hz square wave (and other freqs) zapping

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