Luke's coil

Mordok · 2016-09-02 15:43:42

What I have extra for wire around here is the round 4 conductor telephone wire. So I went ahead and made the coil with that, like it was just one wire. Then I opened up both ends to get at the individual wires. The wires are colored red, green, yellow and black. So I hooked it so that the current entered the coil on the red wire and when it came out the other end, I connected that to the green wire. The green wire then goes back through in the opposite direction back to the start of the coil. It then connects to the yellow wire. The yellow wire goes through to the end and connects to the black wire. The black wire then goes back in the opposite direction to the beginning of the coil and is then connected to the load. Thus you have 4 separate coils, two with the current going in one direction and two in the other direction. This whole thing is wrapped around a pill bottle with plasterite inside. I expect to drop it inside a larger jar that used to hold 56 oz of coconut oil and fill it up with concretite, once it is approved and finalized.

Last edited by Mordok (2016-09-02 16:19:42)

ndw · 2016-09-02 16:05:04

Mordok when you wanna post a pic, using the pc since from android/iphone seems not to work.. , you have the blue button just below the text area/editor, "Add image to post"
then it will let you upload to the site postimg without any account and it will generate the forum code for the image

Loohan · 2016-09-02 17:06:26

I don't think the way Mordok did it is better or worse than connecting the 4 leads in parallel.

Loohan · 2016-09-02 18:12:50

Some ideas for what to plug into these. The amount of current running through the coil does not seem to make a difference. The tiniest bit seems to fully activate the coil.

The night light i showed in the first pic actually generated a surprising amount of heat, which i consider undesirable in the summer. As well as light, which i don't want at night.
Ideal is probably a small adapter for something you always leave plugged in anyway, but which doesn't have a high current demand. E.g. landline phone, toothbrush, etc.

Keep in mind that any surges could conceivably burn the wire inside your device. For this reason i have been using 14-16 awg. But also i have been using crimp connectors, which may not be as reliable as soldering. If there is a big surge, the weakest point will give. Consider putting in a fuse if you are making an elaborate device. Or running the stout coil wire out of the unit so that there are no inaccessible connectors within.

When i souped up my big jailer, i used a $5 electric clock/timer with nothing plugged into it.
(sort of like this:)

which works but make a faint grinding noise.

Today i bought some "electroluminescent" night lights which use much less juice:

CHE+nitelite.jpg

This is what i have my big jailer plugged into now and it works great with no heat even face down on the floor. And probably uses a nickel's worth of electricity per year.

The other item is a CERAMIC HEAT EMITTER sold for people who keep pet reptiles. I have units in 20, 40, and 60 watts for my turtles. These normally last a very long time and emit no light.
Depicted is a 20W CHE in a homemade lamp. Normally one uses only ceramic sockets for CHEs because they are used upside-down and the heat rises up and creates a fire hazard with cheap metal sockets. This is probably not an issue with 20W bulbs sitting business end up, but nevertheless i used a ceramic socket i had salvaged. Glued it onto a March2015B epoxy ring.

These would be good:

Especially if you are using more that 20W.

You can also get brooder lamps at rural lumberyards, feed stores, Tractor Supply, etc. These look like cheap shop-lights but they have ceramic sockets instead. You can use such a lamp if you want directed heat.
Me, i plan to put the 20W CHE standing upright in a cold corner during winter.

Theoretically one can just use a resistor instead, which wastes a small amount of energy as heat. However, so far i have not found a resistor that dowses as compatible.

[Edit Sep 2017: I really like the electroluminescent thingies. Apparently GE (yuck) has a patent and monopoly on them. I have been using several non-stop and they haven't failed.
Also they will work fine on 12V DC. They won't light up. Supposedly it takes at least 60V to make them light up, but they still draw a trickle of current at 12V apparently.]

Luke · 2016-09-05 11:50:55

I am playing myself with this coil, a few years.
But the really good think is four plates capacitor. This emits rough, impressive, very strong energy. For somebody not good, but for me is like heaven.
Construction of it demands carefulness, you may die. For dielectrics i use ceramic material.
I posted Loohan Picture of it. But making of it is for experience people only.

Last edited by Luke (2016-09-05 11:51:20)

UrosS · 2016-09-05 14:01:04

Gen%204_zpsnbar15pz.jpg

Gen 2, now casted in resin, core base concretite with iron pipe. Did it together with my friend Sanja for her, plus many concretites and some orgonites. We felt good support and protective energy and guidance; Loohan and allies helped us to clear the space from attacks which obviouslly tried to interfere our action all the time. Thank you!

Many layers pgms give really strong harmonious vibe. Would be good to know the range it has, I could feel it all the day from far distance strongly after it went to its destination 180 km far.

2x18 wire turns, I used standard extension cord, 10 m. So it can be plugged to anything. Idea is to use all permanently plugged items, like fridge, water heater, etc. Funny thing was, I purchased few cords and the package lost somewhere in post office transport. Still waiting for it. Seems something tried to prevent us making it, but we didn't gave up.

Last edited by UrosS (2016-09-05 14:02:35)

Loohan · 2016-09-05 17:40:50

UrosS wrote:

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w49 … iv4gar.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w49 … ar15pz.jpg

Super nice!

I used standard extension cord, 10 m. So it can be plugged to anything. Idea is to use all permanently plugged items, like fridge, water heater, etc.

As long as you know what you are doing, electrically. I am no expert on AC electricity, but i know that most larger appliances like fridge, air conditioner, say in the manual NOT to use an extension cord. Of course a short cord with thick wire, carefully soldered would probably be OK.

In the US, most 110V house wiring is 12awg, and for a big 110V appliance, i would try to get a short 12awg cord.

UrosS · 2016-09-06 11:08:49

Loohan wrote:

As long as you know what you are doing, electrically. I am no expert on AC electricity, but i know that most larger appliances like fridge, air conditioner, say in the manual NOT to use an extension cord. Of course a short cord with thick wire, carefully soldered would probably be OK.

Good to consider, thanks. I'm not expert at all, but just checked few things. Mostly here these cords are used for anything in household. I already have many things in my hut plugged via extensions which should be dureble at least for 2KW. Fridge has 60W, that means highest power when thermostate activate. This is like normal classic bulb.

What should be good is main fuse amperage. I have 25A with 220V for my hut what should holds much bigger appliances. There are devices which are more vulnerable if voltage varies due to long extensions, maybe that's why warning.

I tried for short my drill 710w...dunno but looked that increased the rotation of the field, so chemclouds above obviously removed and big hole opened.

But yes, it really works well with little voltage items, like portable radio, salt lamp, and so... so I go rather for such stuff.

Luke · 2016-09-10 22:59:43

I have also made a capacitor that canceles electric field and make scalar waves.
http://forum.kvarkadabra.net/viewtopic. … 66#p113466

Last edited by Luke (2016-09-11 03:37:02)

jeaux · 2016-09-11 21:32:05

It seems that this tech is fairly important to our cause.

In that case, I feel it is prudent that I share these revelations.

As it turns out, there are a number of ways to accomplish the effects of Luke's Coil, without actually constructing it.

Here's what went down.

Setting:

I am an infrequent practitioner of Baguazhang, a Chinese martial art that utilizes energetic manipulation within the body and one's environment. Its most prominent distinction is its use of circles and spirals.

Here's Circle Walking: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BbLWxLwO4g

You walk in a circle with your focus resting on the center.

I've been getting back into Bagua lately and thought I'd try something new: performing this walk around an orgonite slab. One of my big, meaty taped ones. It had an old arrangement of rhodizite and various other doodads on it, which I chose to keep there for this purpose.

I decided to do ten breaths in one direction, arms held in a particular position with correct intention, then I'd reverse direction for another ten. I would do this with a variety of different "Palms," or arm positions.

Upon reversing direction, I could feel a TEXTURE to the path I walked. Within the very air itself, there was a resistance against me.

It seemed that by doing this exercise, the space I walked would become imbued with energy. Not only that, but it was "polarized" in a particular way. It flowed in a single direction.

Since the space is charged with the same energy, but in opposite directions, the fields appear to overlap and result in a unique synthesis. It felt great!

It was then I realized: this might just be the human equivalent of Luke's Coil.

Instead of electricity, we're wrapping the orgonite core in human energies. Naturally it would be nice if a human could keep this up for as long as electricity could, but that seems doubtful.

Another good name for it could be the Bagua Coil. Better describes what it's doing.

From all this I was led to a simple truth I continually see pop up: all physical systems have an energetic equivalent. Be it the end of a drill or an electrical circuit. There's ways to remake all these things by using different energies and methodologies.

I'll be making a Coil soon. Could be fun to do some Circle Walking around it. If anyone wants to try, you're probably in for a good time.

Last edited by jeaux (2016-09-11 21:40:15)

Loohan · 2016-09-12 10:21:48

These coils can also run on DC current. Some better than others.
See here for pic:
http://loohanforum.orgoneitalia.it/view … 3440#p3440

diego · 2016-09-13 21:23:58

After a day bothering Loohan if I get or not the rigth result... I made this first Luke's coil. I feel that make 2 in series would be better. Dunno why... tomorrow I will do more one... seems something like that skull of Loohan. I will let the C guide me, for now I only now what I need to buy before make something.

Thanks Loohan for the patient with me!

ndw · 2016-10-11 17:18:13

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Here's what resulted over here. Inner tube of plasterite with some rhodizite, garnet, kyanite inside. The inner tube is surrounded by three Jan2015B tubes. Interspaced are three laboratory made quartz rods with the Laser Program.

Each tube was taped individually, then wrapped with one extension cord split into two separate coils.

Seems to be purring happily along. I had it wrapped a different way before, where the coils were mirroring each other. I decided to redo it with the split cables wrapping the same way on both sides, rather than reversed. Seems to be a little smoother. Not sure which I prefer yet.

Tomorrow I'll add on rhodizite placement on the outsides of the tubes and wires. Ought to be fun to compare the difference.

jeaux · 2016-10-24 01:53:04

Many upgrades have happened! Let's dig right in.

First I attached a variety of stones (rhodizite, kyanite, some quartz and garnet) to the outside of the coil, then stuck it inside a glass jar. This jar got a layer of plaster which received the Water Charging Pgm.

I took that jar and stuck it inside this budding cloudbuster of mine. Which is really rocking it.

After this, I added in some nails and tape that, if you look closely, you can see making little partial circles around the center. These nails are facing straight up. I poured a little over them, then used strips of various tapes to link them together. The idea was that I had never tried tape in a device that wasn't taped to anything but tape. It's just floating there, taped to itself and a nail or two. I imagine it might function more like an antenna, or a net. We'll see how it does.

Next, I decided to make further use of the Water Charging Pgm and add little vials of water to this glass jar. The four taped vials have a little ormus mixed in with the water. The two untaped vials are just pure water (wanted a little variety). These markedly changed the energy of the device. It really softened it. Almost worryingly so. It felt a little like a plant to me!

I tested it out remotely, trying to access this water, but it felt just out of reach. Like it was slippery, or not quite compatible. I could tell it had potential, but couldn't quite figure it out.

So I wondered, how could I get it to be the perfect mix of soft/moist and sharp/precise?

Naturally it's my old friend rhodizite to the rescue. Each piece of it seems to have a good energetic "grip" to it, providing wonderful hyperdimensional traction. Just today I taped rhodizite onto the vials, the glass jar, the nails and strips of tape... thing feels beastly now. I didn't get a picture of this; maybe I'll get one tomorrow. In any case, now it feels like just the right mix of watery, slippery, buzzy, gritty and sharp. All sorts of fun tech coming together into this item.

And I'll tell you what, the thing really tears up chem!

Loohan · 2016-10-27 16:10:29

This has Joe's Hex Pgm all the way up to the level where the coil is, then has other resin pgms.
I might just leave it in the protective mold rather than struggle to remove it.
As usual, the core is plasterite with lots of bionized sand.

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